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What are some of the ways in which you learn about ingredients and the ways in which you teach your staff about them? It really starts just by, when you buy directly from the producer, asking questions and being curious and learning. The prime cuts come here to Savoy; the bulk of the burger meat gets used at Back Forty.
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Learning about that, how to share that meat, about how beef is actually raised and why we make the choices that we make has just been part of the learning process. But that does make it more complicated on your staff because it means also having a great range of skills or knowledge of ingredients. It is more complicated for them and is part of what distinguishes Savoy as an interesting restaurant and not just another one of the restaurants sort of giving lip service and press releases about cooking seasonally.
Do you take your staff on trips to farms or to the market with you? My people sometimes meet me at the market and we walk around and talk about things. Not so much with the current crew, but it may happen again. Have you ever thought of opening or having your own farm or growing things yourself?
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A goal is to try to expand outside the city at some point. You mentioned Back Forty, which opened a year ago. For nearly 18 years, you only had one restaurant. What made you decide to open another one? It was a number of things, but really, it seemed like it was a good moment to take this, all the ideals that we stand for, and express them in a different form, in an easier-going setting, lower price point, but still showing the same commitment to sourcing as we do here at Savoy.
What role do you occupy here on a day-to-day basis? Are you on the line? Do you create the menu? Do you still cook?
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I cook at home, sort of living in that seasonal way. How did you become a chef? I had the notion that it was something I wanted to do. While I was still in high school, I decided to take a year off between high school and college. I moved up to Vermont and cooked in a restaurant there, did some skiing, got a taste for the business, and then did a few other little projects.
Then I went off to school in California and found my way back into the restaurant business. I was more interested in that than aristocratic food, haute cuisine. I worked at The Quilted Giraffe for six months or so, and then I went to France, where I studied with Madeleine Kamman in her cooking school and really immersed myself through her in all the regional cuisines of France and Italy, learning about the historical traditions and how the history and the geography of the land and the people were expressed in dishes that you could find on menus.
I was with her for three months, and then I traveled around Italy and France, some on bicycle, for several months looking for those foods, eating those foods. I came back to New York, and it was at that time that, in a certain way, those ideas were being really translated in the American context for the first time.
People were working with, really celebrating, local producers and looking at the historical regional foods of different regions of the US. Share this post.
Copy link. My wisdom is about my approach to cooking, my approach how we procure, and how we then cook in the kitchen as well. Brian Hogan Stewart. May 10, Discussion about this podcast Comments Restacks. We tell the compelling stories behind cookbooks you won't get anywhere else. Featuring interviews with leading authors, we explore the art and craft of cookbooks, looking at both new and vintage cookbooks and the inspirations behind them … the compelling people who create them … and their impact on home cooks and the culinary world.
Listen on. He began training under renowned chefs like Richard Olney and even traveled to Japan to learn more about food and cooking. These experiences taught him to appreciate the beauty of local ingredients.
Famous chef biography: Chef Peter Hoffman is a curious cook’s cook; interested in the cultural, historical and botanical backstories of foods as well as making them taste delicious. Chef/owner of the renowned Savoy, Back Forty and Back Forty West from until
In , he opened Savoy, one of the first farm-to-table restaurants in the country, followed by Back Forty and Back Forty West. Since shuttering his restaurants, Hoffman has devoted much of his time to writing and speaking about culinary and political topics in articles in Edible Manhattan, op-ed pieces in The New York Times, and appearing in TED Talks.
Part memoir, part cookbook, each of the 14 chapters is named after an ingredient that inspired his Savoy menus. With rigorously tested recipes and the most trusted restaurant, drinks, culinary travel and home coverage, we inspire and empower people everywhere to discover, create, and devour the best in food and wine. And I, too, loved that John McPhee article.
I like that even as a decorated and venerated chef, he is like the the rest of us who burn ourselves getting the food out to the customer, and thinks breakfast burritos are the bomb! Simple food is what most of us crave at the end of a shift, or on our days off. And foie gras is overrated. I would rather saute chicken livers and eat them with my fingers.
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Ah, peasant food…. The nabe grew around him. I have to agree with 6. Rarely did Mr. Hoffman grace the kitchen in my entire time at Savoy. He did spend a great deal of time in the dining room though! Somehow, in spite of the comments of 6 and 10, Mr. Hoffman has created a restaurant that has stood the test of time, viability and quality for 20 years.
That can only be supported by a great chef, restauranteur and manager who is able to inspire a staff that is devoted to his vision. See next articles.